As the temperatures have dropped and the joy riding has slowed, I’ve spent the last few months consuming a lot of “adventure” riding media. I’ve also dedicated a lot of thought to reviewing “best practices” from various motorcycle events I’ve attended, both in preparation for Red River Scramble, while also in the hopes of helping other motorcyclists (including myself) improve their riding skills.
Not all that different from road riding, I find that riding off-road with folks of comparable skill level (or those willing to ride at your level), plays a part in what makes a group ride enjoyable. There’s obviously a lot more to this, and a group doesn’t necessarily need to be composed of uniform skill levels, but it’s a good starting point when putting together a handful of strangers. My biggest concern being, novice riders are sometimes “sucked in” to riding beyond their abilities when following more advanced riders, potentially causing an injury, and in some cases, advanced riders get frustrated when waiting on “slower”, less experienced riders. As far as pavement is concerned, Lemmy over at Revzilla has covered the topic of group riding in great detail, and I recommend taking a few minutes and checking out that article. As far as adventure riding is concerned, for this year’s Red River Scramble I wanted to publish a guide for evaluating your skill level, along with highlighting trail difficulty. This also ties in with how I’ve graded the Daniel Boone Backcountry Byway, and other trails around that area of Kentucky, but more on that in a moment.
Evaluating Your Skills
I caught a podcast on Adventure Rider Radio a few months ago that ultimately led to this blog post.
Bret Tkacs from Puget Sound Safety Off-Road (PSSOR) put together this rating system based on his experience as an instructor. To properly evaluate your skill level, you need to look at the terrain features on a given route, and match that against how well you can safely navigate a given obstacle. Skill levels aren’t necessarily uniform grades, but more of a collection of skills for progressively more difficult trail conditions. For example, some riders might be very comfortable with water crossings, but tense up when riding through sand or mud, and so on. PSSOR has a matrix that describes your skill competence on a given terrain feature:
Please note: This system is targeted at 600-1200cc Adventure bikes carrying light loads, riders on lighter dual-sport bikes can also use this as a guide, but these tasks are generally easier on smaller, more dirt-oriented bikes.
Riding within your Skill level means:
- Not falling or having near misses
- You don’t expect damage to the motorcycle because of terrain
- Riding the given terrain is not tiring
- Breaks are only needed for food, water, so on, not for resting
- You’re capable of multi-tasking while riding (i.e. reading GPS, talking, etc.)
You’re transitioning into higher skill level if:
- Tip overs, falls and near misses are infrequent
- You don’t expect damage to the motorcycle because of terrain
- You need modest breaks between obstacles but are not exhausted
- You can multi-task if needed
You’re significantly outside your skill level if:
- Falls and near misses are frequent
- You crash or have frequent near crashes
- You have or expect damage
- You’re exhausted from riding
- You’re unable to multi-task
Evaluating the Route
PSSOR rates a given route based on terrain features and inherent difficulty. If a stretch of the route contains two or more of these obstacles, it is given that rating.
Novice
- Typically old or poorly-maintained paved roads and maintained dirt/gravel roads
- Water crossings less than 2 inches deep
- Sticks of small tree limbs
- Modest inclines or declines (road-like grades)
Basic
Full lane or two-track- Graded dirt/gravel roads
- Wide and shallow ruts and washboard
- Packed sand
- Minor water bars (weather ruts)
- Slow-moving water crossings less than 4-inches deep
- Obstacles/Ledges less than 4-inches high
- Loose rock or gravel less than 3 inches deep
- Patches of soft gravel, shallow sand, or surface mud
Intermediate
Dry, narrow single-track ruts- Shallow mud
- Soft gravel deeper than 2-inches
- Short sections of soft sand (less than 100 ft. long)
- Water hazards with mud base or loose rocks
- Water crossings up to 6-inches deep
- Obstacles up to 6-inches
Advanced
- Snow
Narrow Two-track switchbacks- Sections of loose rocks larger than 5-inches
- Long sections of soft sand (beyond 100 feet)
- Narrow, wet, single track ruts
- Water crossings with loose base or rocks
- Fast flowing water crossings greater than 7-inches
- Modest flowing water crossings deeper than 9-inches
- Deep soft gravel
- Mud/sand requires checking to proceed
- Mud that may need momentum to cross
- Hill climbs with mud or loose rocks larger than 6-inches
- Ledges/obstacles over 6-inches tall
Expert
Dirt bike like trails- Single-track with switchback sections
- May be impassible unless ideal conditions
- May need mechanical assistance (winch)
- Narrow, off-camber sections
- Fast moving water crossings
- Water crossings deeper than 12 inches
- Obstacles or ledges taller than the front axle
- Deep soft sand
- Sticky mud
- Vertical drop offs or inclines
This guide is not about who’s better than who, it’s about having a “standard” for conversation purposes. That way folks know what to expect when they’ve been given a recommendation for a trail or perhaps when they’re trying to figure out how to put together a group. This is also the “abridged” version of the PSSOR guide, I highly recommend that you check out their page, and study the guide more closely. Also, be sure to check out Bret Tkacs at his website, his YouTube channel, and the training section of his webpage.
How this translates to Red River Scramble
Beyond meeting new people, riding with old friends, and sampling some of the best Pizza in Kentucky, Red River Scramble is also about discovering the Bluegrass Backcountry, which at times is un-paved. While not required, I encourage adventurous riders to take their first excursion off the pavement and down the gravel roads of the Daniel Boone National Forest to see some of the best views of Red River Gorge while they’re in Kentucky. I obviously want to make people as comfortable as I possibly can in taking that first step, so I’m publishing this guide, and promoting PSSOR’s work.
Next, I’ve also taken the time to “rate” each unpaved section of the Daniel Boone Backcountry Byway based on the obstacles you’ll encounter. Admittedly, I’ve combined PSSOR’s “Novice” and “Basic” terrain features into “Easy” for the sake of brevity. If you look at the map posted on the DBBB Guide I published a few months ago, you’ll find each section numbered and color-coded based on difficulty, along with photographs or videos of each section. I plan on providing an abridged, text only, file for download and potentially paper copies for reference at the event in May, just to keep folks from wading in too deep by accident.
As always, these are recommended guidelines and considering weather, trail conditions can evolve by the hour. I also ask folks to leave comments below if they have additional pointers with regard to group riding, measuring your riding skills, or any recommendations on how to make group riding more enjoyable for everyone, be it on or off road.





I’d rather install a new set of connectors than have enough slack in the wire to loop it around, so I go through quite a few when I’m doing a job like this. I can almost laugh about it now (seriously, I’m close to being able to), but a few years back I ordered a set of lights and complete wiring kit for a CAN Bus bike. When it arrived, I didn’t like the way the light loom was built. It was a “Y” shape and supposed to be model specific, but it was too long in one place and just long enough in two others, while also requiring dis-assembly of both sides of the bike. I stripped it down and built my own using the switches, relay blocks, and connectors. My version split right at the front of the bike requiring only one side of the bike to be disassembled (and fit much better, even if I do say so myself) and there was just enough slack in the loom to tuck it away nice and tidily.
meter, idiot lights, and other measurables like temperature and fuel level was born out of a desire to add the tachometer, and to relocate the ignition key to the dash area. I’ve always been happier when I can see the key in front of me, and I really distrust the location on the side of the headlight bracket. The answer came one day when I found the Bonneville Bracket Ignition Relocation Single Gauge Mount for the earlier non-CVO Bonnies. I really didn’t want to pay for a new Triumph tachometer, or the money they were going for used on eBay. I’d bought a 2” LED Rev Counter and Battery Volt Meter I found a deal on and had formed up a template using thin aluminum as a mounting bracket to locate it on the riders’ side of the handlebar ala the current Scrambler models. This had been the result of some researching to figure out where to get the signal for the Tach. 
and lucky for me the bike came to me with the thin Triumph Comfort Seat. I didn’t realize how much I liked that particular seat until I bought a single seat with an integrated rear rack and rode that around for a couple of weeks. I’m blaming Drew for this diversion because his Scrambler looks really good with this setup and if I recall correctly, he did an Iron Butt Ride using that setup. It lasted about a fortnight (two weeks) on my bike before I swapped it back to the comfort seat. While I was playing on a forum one day, I saw a post about a long-forgotten mod that required a Vespa seat pin and a Kawasaki ZX6 seat latch. As you can tell, I went ahead and dropped $15 on a used seat latch and $6 on the Vespa part, and now I have a cable release for my comfortable seat.
I realized that I was expecting the carb’ed Bonnie to feel like a well-tuned Fuel Injected bike, and anyone who’s in the know is well aware of the subtle differences between carb and FI bikes. I took the Bonbler out after Drew returned from one of our initial post-suspension work test-runs and realized the bike was actually pretty peachy the way it was. This impression was in no doubt due in part to Drew’s comment when he returned saying it was one of the best carb’ed Bonnies he’d ridden [One of the best Bonnevilles. Period. -Ed.].
The gearing is just right for getting up to speed quickly, the suspension is nice and firm with plenty of feedback to the rider, and the engine is smooth with a nice crisp throttle response. It’s the bike I wanted to build. I am happy the way it’s turned out. I think it’s going to be with me for a while, and if you’ve read my other blogs on here you’ll know that is a strong testament to the finished product [I mean, it is the longest standing bike in Andy’s possession right now… -Ed.]. Thanks for bearing with me. I hope there’s something in here you can take away for your own project(s).






























































